Kallnacher Absinthe Review:

- 55% abv (110 proof), 1 litre

-Country of origin: Switzerland

-Distilled by the well-respected Matter Luginbühl distillery

-Schweizer Schnaps Forum 2006 Selection

There are so many quality absinthe brands to choose from these days, it's becoming difficult to become a household name. Kallnacher is a prime example of a quality absinthe that is simply overshadowed by more popular brands.  Nevertheless, it is a solid brand that is certainly worth a try.

Pouring a serving reveals a crystal-clear spirit free of sediments or haze.  The fennel was not as nearly obtrusive as you would find in most la bleus, and maintained a more floral tone held back only by a little more alcohol than I would have liked, and for being slightly lacking in the usual zesty freshness. The aroma is subdued prior to louching, but practically exploded once water was added, making it one of the sweeter floral aromas I've come across.

The louche begins almost immediately and finishes a little quick, but there is some serious swirl action with a paced, pleasing expansion of cloudiness.  The volume was slightly lacking, but resulted in a very fully-opaque gray (bit darker than most) with a trace of cream colour.

At a 3:1 ratio there was a great balance of anise and melissa with just the right amount of sweetness and a slightly bitter follow up.  I noted it sips very smoothly with a touch of heat pleasantly rounding off the more subtle, but ever-lingering fennel and wormwood finish.  A coriander undertone keeps the fennel in line and rounds out the package nicely.  With only momentary pauses between sips, the numbing effect never crossed into unpleasant territory.  Overall, it wasn't quite as light a flavour as I would expect from a la bleu, and just misses the mark of utmost crispness, but satisfies regardless.  Also notable is that this absinthe goes much easier on the fennel, and adds a touch more wormwood for a la bleu that is less sweet with a tinge of bitter .

And, like any la bleu adding sugar pretty much ruins the drink with excessive sweetness, therefore is not recommended at all.  Further dilution promptly marred the boldness, but does smooth the ingredients nicely, bringing the sweet fennel out further to cater to fennel whores like myself, so no complaints here.  I enjoy it at both dilutions; the former being a more unique taste and the latter appealing to fans of a more familiar drink.

For fans of CLB or any of its variants, this will likely never become a favourite, but even so, it will always be a safe bet as a highly-drinkable brand.

Personal Preference:  I best enjoyed Kallnacher at a 2.5-3:1 ratio without sugar, although some may enjoy it a little stronger at the 2:1 dilution.

Presentation: 6.0

Louche: 6.5

Taste: 7.5

Value: 8.0

Overall: 7.5

Posted 10/28/07