Edouard 72 Review – Jade Liqueurs

by Christopher Zerbe (GUEST REVIEW)

Picture courtesy of  www.absinthe.de

-75cl (50 cl shown) 72% abv (144 proof)

-Silver Medal Winner at the 2006 IWSC

-Made in Saumur, France in original Pernod Fils absinthe alembics.

From the manufacturer:

"Not since the French ban of 1915 has the world seen a French absinthe that boasts the quality of the famed Edouard Pernod label. Jade Absinthe Edouard is absolutely correct to the original, from its delicate tint, to its refined texture and delightfully aromatic finish. The exquisite taste of this absinthe is incredibly smooth, unique and delicious. Absinthe Edouard offers the connoisseur the genuine Belle Époque absinthe experience, and makes an impressively prestigious addition to any collection of fine liquors. We invite you to experience the unrivalled quality, tradition, and mystique that only Absinthe Edouard can deliver."

After doing extensive reading about Jade Absinthe, and being particularly intrigued with owner Ted Breaux – an environmental chemist by profession – I was astounded with Ted's incessant desire to re-create period-exact absinthes down to what time of year the herbs were harvested and from what areas of Europe. I knew I had to check these out!

This review focuses on one of four presently produced by Jade: Edouard 72, a faithful re-creation of Pernod Fils' style absinthes, arguably the most popular in France's absinthe history.

Like the other Jades, Edouard 72 is so finely made one can choose to drink it with or without sugar. It's excellent either way, since the subtleties of flavor shift slightly – both methods are quite enjoyable.

The labeling is exquisite and gives the owner a true "Belle Epoque"
feeling as the gold paper and fleur de lys flicker against the light. After all, absinthe is as much about ambiance as it is spirits and this label does not disappoint.

Upon uncorking, which requires the removal of wax – a sign of craftsmanship with any fine spirit – the initial nose of this absinthe is sweet, with prominent fennel and anise coming through first, then renders a background of wormwood and fine herbs. It almost has a "cotton candy" like aroma.

The colour is a rich emerald green given entirely from plants and herbs as there are no artificial colours used in the entire Jade line.

I began with two absinthe glasses (one with sugar, one without) each with one ounce of Edouard 72, and placed the glasses under my absinthe fountain to begin dripping iced water from its spouts at a rate of approximately one drip per second. This slow titration method allows the room to perfume in advance, and gives one plenty of time to see the green fairy do her dance. After approximately two minutes in, the sugared glass began to show a noticeable louche complete with dancing tendrils, which I believe were enhanced due to the syrupy nature of liquefied sugar – a classically beautiful sight to behold. The non-sugared glass was blending smoothly as well with less noticeable tendrils. Both glasses were louching well, showing a thick dark green top as the absinthe oils slowly blended into the water. Once reaching a 5 to 1 mixture, both glasses were completely louched an opaque green, so I shut off the spouts. Using the absinthe spoon, I mixed the sugared glass to be sure the sugar was well blended with the absinthe for proper tasting.

Upon the first sip of the sugared glass, a light sweetness and warm herbal quality softly awoke my palate. Like its initial nose, I tasted anise and the wormwood's 'grassyness' followed shortly by hyssop, then a hint of veronica just after. There was an ever so slight and pleasing numbing of my tongue taking place as the final flavours ended in a cottony softness.

The non-sugared glass faired exactly the same without the initial sweet flavour, and overall, the layers were a bit more pronounced with a slightly squarer edge to them. The word 'piquant' comes to mind. Both methods were excellent.

Those used to sipping their absinthes at a 4:1 ratio will find this absinthe intensifies in every aspect, but does so at levels consistent with its flavour balance at other ratios. Hence, one could say the palate remains in balance with a stronger, but even presentation of nuance. If pressed hard to find a difference, I would say I found the wormwood flavour slightly increases - or hits the tongue a half second earlier, but that is not readily noticeable. I had to sip several times to find this subtlety.

I then added more iced water to each, rendering a 6 to 1 ratio, and was pleasantly pleased to see both glasses only slightly shifted in intensity with no real loss of flavour complexities. I recommend trying multiple ratios and seeing which best suits your personal taste.

Having never tasted an original Pernod Fils absinthe, but, having read about many people who have (and how they've compared that to Edouard 72), I feel it is safe to say this absinthe is about as close as you can get to having the real deal. Edouard 72 is one of two Pernod duplicates, the second being Jade's 'PF1901'. And in a few weeks, I will compare both to original pre-ban 1910 Pernod Fils absinthe when my bottle arrives.

People say that you get what you pay for. Jade's absinthes are considered premium in every way, including price, but if you are looking for some of the very (if not the) best, this is surely for you. At one ounce per serving, the 75cl bottle offers up approximately 25 servings – a deal in my book for this level of quality and authenticity.

Presentation: 9.0
Louche: 9.5
Taste: 9.0
Value: 8.5

Overall: 9.0

Posted 9/28/2007